2021 Harvey County Fair Demo Derby – Weld Rules
Entries are open to men and women who have a valid driver’s license. In the interest of safety and in fairness to all contestants, the following rules and regulations will prevail:
DRIVERS ENTRY AND FEES:
- All drivers and pit crews must be 18 years of age or have a notarized permit by a parent or guardian. ID must be shown by both the minor and signing adult at check in. Notary paper work must be done prior to entry! There will be no notary available at the derby.
- All drivers and pit crew must sign a release form prior to derby.
- Drivers must furnish his/her own car.
- A maximum of six (6) sponsors per car.
- Drivers may enter each heat but must have a different car for each heat.
- Each car will pay an entry fee. The entry fee will include two pit passes, one driver & one The fee is as follows – $40 the day of the derby.
- Additional pit passes will be available for $20 each.
- Anyone entering the pit area must provide a valid state ID.
- **NO ONE UNDER THE AGE OF 16 WILL BE ADMITED TO THE PIT AREA AT ANYTIME BETWEEN 11AM TO THE END OF THE DERBY! Anyone under the age of 18 must have notarized paper work with them at the time of check in along with the signing adult & both presenting a valid ID.
- Drivers may maneuver forward and/or backward.
- If the driver does not hit another car aggressively within 1 minute, that driver will be disqualified.
- DO NOT play possum & NO TEAM DRIVING!
- Drivers must attend a drivers meeting approximately one–half hour prior to the start of the derby.
- All protests must be submitted by a driver in writing to the official with a minimum of five (5) driver’s signatures along with $50. If the car is found to have cheated the $50 will be returned. If the car is found to be legal, the $50 will be given to the driver in question.
- No pit persons allowed in show arena during a heat.
7. Cars must be inspected between 2:00 and 5:30 PM. There will be NO EXCEPTIONS TO THIS RULE. The Derby will start at 6:30 PM.
- If any car is found to be illegal during inspection they get two chances to fix it correctly, the THIRD time the car has to be inspected it will cost $50 for it to be looked at again.
- No drivers or pit crew members under the influence of liquor or any illegal substance will be allowed to participate or enter the exhibition area. County and Sate Law prohibit the consumption or possession of any alcoholic beverage or cereal malt beverages on property owned by city, state or governmental subdivision.
- Only one (1) work vehicle per car entry in pit area. NO TRAILERS INSIDE PITS DURING CHECK IN. Please drop trailers outside of pit area away from spectator parking.
- Cars are subject to re–inspection before prize money or trophies are handed out. THE TOP FIVE (5) CARS WILL NOT LEAVE THE ARENA AFTER THE FINAL. THESE CARS WILL BE INSPECTED AGAIN BY OFFICIAL AND DRIVER ONLY, BEFORE ANY PRIZE MONEY IS AWARDED.
- If you have any questions give us a call. If the rules don’t say it, don’t do it. Official’s decisions are final!
PREPARATION OF CARS:
- Any make of automobile, 1950 and up may be entered as long as the vehicle is not a pickup, truck, or jeep. No four wheel drives, NO Chrysler Imperials or Desoto, NO ambulances or hearses will be allowed. No trucks, jeeps, Convertibles, carryalls, and NO Imperial/Desoto sub frame cars. Suicide Lincolns will be allowed.
- All glass, chrome, name plates, pot metal, plastic, small grill prices, and anything else that might break off or fall off must be removed from car prior to entry on grounds. No wagon decking will be allowed.
- Concrete, metal plate, wood, foam and pins in the frame and doors will NOT be allowed.
- The stock gas tanks must be removed. A maximum 10 gallon gas tank must be located in the rear seat compartment and fastened and covered securely.
- Batteries must be moved to front seat compartment and fastened securely. Batteries and fuel cells must be covered with metal or rubber mat. No more than two automotive or marine batteries allowed.
- Radiators and fans may be removed but not relocated. You cannot use your heater core for a radiator
- Transmission coolers may be placed inside the car. Electric fans or ice may be used.
- Body mounts may be changed to 1 inch bolts or less. A 5” by 5” by ¼” plate may be used inside the car as a washer on the top side of the body mounts. You can suck body to frame. Do not weld body to frame. You may add 2 extra body mounts inside of car only. Rear humps forward. Not in truck area.
- Car trunk lids may be folded inside the trunk compartment. You cannot weld lid inside of car.
- Air conditioning condenser cores may be placed in front of the radiator. No other reinforcement such as expanded metal may be used.
- No tires larger than 16” allowed. A tire mounted inside of a tire is allowable.
- WHEELS: No bead lock or screwed wheel. 16 inch wheel are allowed. ¾ ton rear ends and must be 6 lug only. Only have 5 lug nuts total per wheel and no floater rear-ends allowed. No solid wheels are allowed.
- Air cleaner must be left in place.
- Firewalls must be covered with inter tube if there is a hole. Distributor protectors allowed, must be attached to engine or transmission only, backside must be no wider than 12 inches. If you run a Distributor Protector do not mount your dash bar closer than 6 inches from the back of the distributor protector or tranny protector. Distributor protect can touch firewall. If you do not run a distributor protector, you may run a kicker from frame to dash bar but can only go 6 inches in front of firewall. Kicker can only be no bigger than 1 inch and can only be welded on the top side of frame. You may put a 1inch by 1 inch plate on the top of the frame so you can weld the kicker to. It cannot go down the side of the frame. YOU CAN NOT HAVE BOTH (THE DISTRUTOR PROTECT OR THE KICKER. ONE OR THE OTHER). If your engine mounts are broke, this means you can use a cradle but you will not be allowed to have kickers. No exceptions.
- Modifications are allowed but the car must be running on gasoline.
- Coil spring rear end cars can NOT be changed to a leaf spring rear end. No main leafs may be substituted for sub leafs. All cars may have a total of up to 9 leafs and can only be 5/16 inches thick. You must also make sure you have a 2 inch stagger. You may reinforce tie rods with a 3/8 by 8 inch rod, no modification of A arms, leaf springs and coil. This means you can swap out A arm for A arm but you cannot reinforce A arm with added metal. A-arms can have (two) 2 inch wide X 6 inch long and ¼ inch thick straps welded to frame per a-arm. If you choose not to straps the a-arms down, you can weld the A- Arm down but only weld two 2 inch wide welds per A-arm. If you choose not to strap or weld and want to bolt A-arms down, you must use( two) 3/8 bolts per A-arm. You can have factory twist in spacers in front and rear coils springs. You can have 4 extra clamps per side on rear of leaf springs and they can only be no bigger than 2inch wide by 4inch long by ¼ inch thick. You can have factory twist in spacers in front and rear coils spring.
- You can stuff upper and lower control arms.
- A fire extinguisher must be placed in car and securely mounted within easy access to the driver.
- You may place slogans and/or advertising (no obscenities) anywhere on the car except on the front door. You must put the car number in large print on the front doors with the driver’s name above the number. You must put car number upright on the roof of the car.
- All cars must have working brakes.
- No paint or undercoating allowed on frames.
- #9 wire is allowed. 1 spot per window and it can have 2 complete wraps and can go around frame
- You can pre-fold body but you cannot weld, this means do not create your own seems and weld.
- 80s and newer–you are allowed to tilt (You are allowed to cut the frame at the box, pull it down, and re-weld it.), May tilt frames but you may only use 12 inches of weld per side. You may add factory gussets off a newer Vic and install on an older Vic. No homemade gussets will be allowed.
- Watts-Link Conversions – You may convert a Watts Link Ford to a Standard GM rear end in the following way: Use the trailing arm brackets off an older Ford of the same size and thickness. No positioning of the brackets to strengthen the front down leg of the rear hump. You may cut out the coil spring frame tray from an earlier Ford and weld it in the newer Ford. When welding only one pass ¼”maximum no stronger than stock. No homemade bracket will be allowed.
- 2003 and Newer Fords, Do not change out the aluminum cross member it must remain stock. You can build your engine cradle to go around existing cross member but you must leave a small hole so we can sheet the aluminum cradle the cradle can not be more than 14” long and 3/4″ thick. IF YOU DO THIS YOU ARE ONLY ALLOWED 6 PLATES INSTEAD OF 8. You can change steering components but they must not weld to the frame. Bolted in with no modifications. You may remove the Aluminum cross member and replace it with a metal cross member or bubble Ford-EX.. No Desoto, Imperial cross members. NO ADDITIONAL METAL ALLOWED>
- Rear-ends: You may brace the back housing and axle protectors are allowed. 14 bolt rear-ends allowed–rearends must be 5 lug!
- May chain rear differential to the floor or humps. (3/8 chain max.) or 2 wraps of # 9 wire per side NO PINNING!
- K-frames must leave one ear up. Y-frames you can close the gap with a 1/4 inch thick plate but must have 1/4 hole for scoping
- No Frame Pinning and No Fame Lacing
- All framed holes must be open, no welding shut or washers added!
- May tie frame rails together at rear end with a chain or 2 raps of #9 wire (no further forward than hump)
DERBY RULES**WELDING EXCEPTIONS
- The only welding on the frame is from the transmission cross member forward and can only be ½ inch wide weld. Top and bottom seams only. Do NOT weld anywhere else on the frame unless stated. Do not X frame. No welding will be allowed inside of cars. If a car is brought in with welds, you must cut all the way through and no slobbers allowed.
- The hood must be securely bolted with a maximum of eight all threads not to exceed one inch in diameter (must be able to open). The only bolts or all thread allowed to go through the frame are the two located at the radiator core support. All other bolts or all thread must be sheet metal to sheet metal only. Hood washers may not exceed 3/8 inch thick by 5 inch square. Two bolts or all thread (not to exceed 1 inch in diameter) are allowed in the trunk and can go thru frame. Trunk may be chained around rear bumper but must not go around the frame or rear axle. Trunk and doors may be securely welded on the outside only. You can fold top of doors down and weld together. No added material used. You cannot weld on hoods; You can use 25 bolts which can be 1/4 inche thick to reattach braces to hood.
- Holes must be cut in hood, (a min. of (2) 6”by 6” each) A 12” hole must be cut in trunk. Trimming the body for tire clearance allowed (a maximum of eight 3/8 inch bolts per wheel well with a maximum on inch O.D. washer will be allowed. You may cut and weld rear fender wells also.
- A safety bar may be welded or bolted behind driver’s seat not to exceed 4 inch in diameter. Bar may extend from door post to door post, but preferred to run diagonally from driver’s door to hump in floor board. A four point internal side cage (includes dash bar, side bars, and bar behind seat) will be
Side bars must not extend further than 18 inches behind rear edge of front door. Side bar cannot be bigger than 4 inch. You may also run a kicker from the door bar down to the floor or frame, do not extend any further forward than the front door seam, between the dash bar and seat bar, on
both sides. You may connect the rear halo to the frame but cannot go further back than 18 inches from the front door seam. Gas tank protectors can be used but can only be only 24 inch long. It can be 3 inch or less in diameter and must be 1 inch away from untouched sheet metal behind gas tank. You can either go forward or angle and tie back into seat bar. You may weld ONE bar no bigger than 2” from the roof
straight down to floor pan under speaker deck, you may put a 5”X5” plate on each side of bar to secure due to thin metal, DO NOT ANGLE THE BAR !! DO NOT CONNECT TO HALO BAR!!
- Driver’s door must have reinforcement brace on inside or outside of door. Driver’s door bar on the outside can cover driver’s side door and passenger side door but not to exceed past passenger side door. Foam may be place in drivers door area to protect driver. You may also stick 4×4 wooden post in the driver side door only. One 4 stran wrap of 9 nine per window opening allowed.
- DO NOT install special bumpers, extra weights, trailer hitches, special lift kits, or any reinforcement except as set out in rules. No modifications of suspension allowed. Shocks may not be altered but you can have the coil over shocks. No coil over shocks allowed on front end.
- A bar or chain must be welded in where windshield would be. The windshield protector will not be used for reinforcement.
- Door seams, trunk lid seams, and wagon gate seams may be welded with 3” by 1/4 “strap or with ½” rebar (in line with the seam). You cannot over lay material anywhere on the car. This means do not weld a 2 inch followed by a 1 or even 2 inch. Smaller material may be used. You can also weld the inner door seams with a 3” strap. This is the only thing you can weld inside of the car.
- A maximum of (2) straps 2” by ¼” can be welded from front bumper to core support. A maximum of
(2) straps 2” by ¼ can be welded from rear bumper to trunk lid. All straps on the front and back must be placed vertically.
- Factory bumper mounts may be welded to the frame without using filler material.
- Shock bumper mounts may be welded without using filler material and cannot be more than 18 inches long. If you choose to use the Pontiac bumper brackets on the front bumper, they cannot be no longer than 18 inches. If you choose to not have bumper brackets/shocks, I will only be allowing a 10 inch long by 6 inch wide by 3/8 inch thick plate to replace bumper bracket/shock. No homemade Pontiac bumper brackets will be allowed.
- Bumper swaps are allowed. Chevy to Ford, Chrysler to Chevy. Loaded or homemade bumpers are allowed. No concrete or wood. (2) 3X3 square tubing is allowed for homemade bumpers. This means the bumper may be 6 inch Tall by 3 inch wide. You may also add a point to the front of the bumper. The point can only go out 11 inches from the Back of the bumper or 8 inches from the front of the bumper. The point is only allowed to be 24 inches wide which mean go out 12 Inches from the middle to each side. You may use the same width on the point which is 6 inches tall. You may also fill in the gap of the point with 3/8 plate and no bigger. Must have a small hole to scope. Stock bumpers that you want to stuff, you can only use the same size or smaller material. You may also build a pointy bumper out of
the stock bumper but must use same dimension as homemade bumpers. The length of the bumper cannot go past the outside of the front tires. You may cover with existing chrome bumper.
- Bumper skin may be cut and folded down and welded. You may relocate rear bumper and lay in You are not allowed to load rear bumper if you install in trunk. You are only allowed to cut holes in bumper and put the all tread that is running through your trunk from frame or trunk pan through the bumper and put plate on top of bumper with nut and then your all-treads run up through trunk lid. You are
not able to weld or re-position bumper any other way. If so, you will be asked to remove bumper. If bumper is put in truck, you must put the 2’ inch strap from bumper bracket to body and weld. We do not want the bumper brackets to be sticking out and puncture the side of another car.
- Motor mounts may be welded as long as it does not reinforce frame. You can only go straight down and do not extend out.
- Pre-run cars may patch a hole in the body of the car, but not replace the whole side of the car. If you patch a hole you must use sheet metal no greater than the sheet metal that makes up the original car This patch may overlap the outside of the hole 2”X 4” don’t push your luck
- No welding of the suspension. You can weld main leaf mounting brackets to prevent them from coming unbolted. Rear-end control arm may be shortened or lengthened but must be rewelded. You can weld coil springs at the base. (So they don’t fly out)
- The steering column from steering wheel to gearbox may be altered.
- Welding machines can be allowed in pit area.
- All cars may have plates welded to the frame and you may have 8 total plates (4X6) and can be ¼ inch thick. Maximum 8 plates per car fresh or used. YOU ARE ONLY ALLOWED 6 PLATES IF YOU BUILT YOUR OWN CROSS MEMBER ON 03′ AND NEWER .. You must leave an inch between welds on plates. This means you cannot butt plates together. If you have a preran car and you already have 8 plates and you have to add another plate, you must completely cut one plate off to add another plate. The plates can only be welded on the side of the frames. No welding the plates on the top and bottom of the frame. ONLY 8 plates total and I am not going off square inches.
- You may weld the core support and inner fenders to outer fenders. DO NOT USE ADDED FILLER. WELD ONLY.
- Sedagons are allowed but you are not allowed to weld the top post to the bottom post. You can only tuck roof inside of car and use the 2 all threads or # 9 wire where ALLOWED one 4 strand wraps per window opening.
- Judges will be lenient.
– Official’s decisions are FINAL! If there is an altercation with an official you will be removed from the derby arena and or pit area and not be able to return.
REMOVAL OF CARS
Each driver must remove his/her car from the fairgrounds within 12 hours of the end of the derby.
Any cars remaining on the fairgrounds more than 12 hours will become property of the Free Fair Association.
ANY QUESTIONS ON THE BUILDING OF CARS, CONTACT RYDELL PENNER AT 316-303-6307.